my gear is on since i get them, if only the auto on of thing worked right, then i would enable that function. but since they are all shit and go into standby while listing to low volume and really hard to wake up again i turn that feature off or disable it on the amp chip itself.

if you have that mindset then you know something is wrong.
if your upgrades do not give you anything then stop.
ralax, it is just a hobby. a fun one if you let it.

i rather pick a wood fiber insulation, i used this: https://huntonfiber.co.uk/products/wall/hunton-nativo-wood-fiber-insulation-boards/
and the airgap behind should be equal to the thickness. 2" gap with 2" insulation perform the same as 1" gap with 3" insulation.
unless you want thick as possible for future flexibility.

there is a lot of excellent comments already made so i can mention other angles.
there is budgets, so 2 way or 3 way comes down to the designers intentions, there is a lot of compromises and benefits to balance.
if you design choices are 2 or 3 way and you add the extra budget for the 3 way the midrange and bass driver can now be dedicated drivers for the purpose.
for me it is the dedicated midrange that makes the difference, since i need separate subwoofers anyways.

you can also make your 2 way main speakers into 3 way speakers if you have dsp in your system. for that you need to be at least have high pass filter for mains and have two subwoofers set up as stereo on each side. basically making a 3 way system with detachable bass section.
that gives you some of the benefits from a single cabinet 3 way and now you already have subwoofer so that is set.

i just remember, Manger p1 is sealed, may need to go to the preview version and find it used.

you just picked that rarest of speaker type. i do not know why all this port, transmissions line and passive radiator are common when we all need subwoofer in the end.
KLH Model Five is one, still need a small stand.

no need to ask, just do it and listen.

what is that youtube kind of site? i got a pop up like warning when i try to leave it…
here are some electronic music i enjoy if you have a speaker system that is full range:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=456xP8aX96A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGm1LXSM6gU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYKz-Cnu-RI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTC–CUKwsM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiH-m_zZRRc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcqYNfGYnRM

of course not, no covers, otherwise what is the point of speakers?
covers should be not allowed in pictures on reddit. or vertical phone formant by the way.

it is not that simple, phase changes with frequency and dispersion patterns, then comes the room and setup.

i would think outside the box a bit, get something that has dsp, volume control and digital output. that way you can hook up anything from passive speakers to active, digital or analog. just add dac and amps as needed.
i have personal experience with minidsp shd studio. but minidsp has a wide range or products.
when you have something like minidsp those are small in size and have many channels, so you get better dsp to integrate subwoofer, you can even run passive subwoofers and make them “active” way better than normal subwoofers. and then you can high pass the main speakers and time delay them to match, and do not buy porterted or passive radiator speakers, sealed has the least drawbacks and the most sound quality.
and you do not need a microphone to do eq or a proprietary software, just REW, tone generator and ears.
win win for this solution.

when a system sound much better than a common pc speaker or those portable things.
that would be a hifi perhaps. or speakers and amplifiers actually made to reproduce sound at home.

cheaper to make, more absorbing material inside so less box sound comes thru the woofer, smaller box, plays louder without a high pass filter, no phase change like a port produces, and there are no unwanted resonances in the box coming out of the port, and dsp work better on sealed boxes.

i would recommend the arendal audio 1961 monitors, do not waste money on ported design especially when you got subwoofer.

to do basic eq you do not need one, but for learning about audio and dsp it is great.
and auto eq needs one, i use calibrated umik 1.

dsp/streamer/volume control unit and speakers i would spend 4k usd on, then get the dac’s and power amps used or on sale, easy to upgrade later.
it cost a lot to get my recommended speakers setup, 2 way speakers and dual subwoofers.

recordings are made differently, so some are going to sound off.
you can set a eq or room correction by ear to add bass extension only.
i like to do eq with a online tone generator in listening position in realtime by ear, so that every frequency is reproduced with about equal volume to me.
then the recording and mixes comes out however they are made.
of you have any references or experiences you to recreate do the eq to match that.