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1 year agoThe speakers seem to have a Wide Dispersion Tweeter Array so their is probably no point in towing them in.
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Cake day: October 23rd, 2023
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Have you had a chance to audition the KANTA 3? Just curious.
I’ve definitely had Buyer’s Remorse, but that was probably based more on Unrealistic Expectations on my part.
I bought 12ga Rope-Lay Pure Copper Speaker Cable expecting a difference. But - wire is wire - and it sounded the same. Even did an A/B with the old wire - the same.
I bought a high quality Amp that was THREE TIMES the cost of my existing amp. Ultimately, they sounded the same. But I did get some nice features on the new amp that were worth while.
Consider that Amps don’t have sound. At least perfect Amps do not have sound. So, to expect the New Amp to add anything or boost anything or to enhance anything was unrealistic. The Best Amps don’t add or subtract anything.
I’m happy with my amp, happy with my speaker wire, happy with my speakers …but that doesn’t eliminate the desire to upgrade just to have something new. I can be satisfied and still want more.
Right now I’m struggling to decide between Focal 948 ($3,200/pr), Bowers-Wilkins 702 S3 ($7,000/pr), and the Klipsch Forte IV ($5,000/pr). Can’t decide, and really in the moment, can’t justify the price of any.
So, yes I have had Buyer’s Remorse, but that wasn’t the fault of the equipment, that was the fault of me building it up in my head beyond realistic expectations.
The 900 Series in an upgrade of the Older 800 Series. I heard the 800 Series and they were STUNNING. Very life-like with clear articulated bass. When I listened, I literally heard Bass GUITAR not just generic bass drone.
I believe the 948 have 2x8" Bass Driver each with a Bass Rating of -
- 37hz at -3db
- 31hz at -6dB
- With 92.5dB Sensitivity
That is not crazy deep bass, but I think we are too obsessed with Bass Depth today. There is something called the Bass Presence Range which is where you here most of the bass in music - that is in roughly the 80hz to 120hz range. The lowest note on a Bass Guitar doesn’t even reach 40hz. So, if you are down in the 30’s with stunning clarity, you are going pretty good.
Stunningly clear with great sound stage. Though, not exactly cheap at $3200/pair.
They are somewhat forward, so if you use them in an otherwise Bright Room, it might be a bit too much, but still very clear speakers based on my audition of the 800 Series.
What you are ultimately hearing are the SPEAKERS, so an upgrade there can make a difference.
Others will say that the most critical factor is the Source, because if you haven’t captured it at the source, then you haven’t captured it at all.
To give you my perspective, this is how I break down the Budget of a Stereo System -
- 1x to 1.5x = Turntable
- 1x = CD Player
- 1x = Network Player
- 1x = Amp/Receiver
- 2x = Speakers
Notice emphasis on Speakers. Though these numbers are not etch in stone. You can change them based on your own priorities and based on the specific equipment you find.
Let’s say you want to buy everything listed, and have a budget of $10,000. We add up the number of ‘x’ which is 6x total. Divide that into $10,000 and we have this -
- $1,666 to $2500 = Turntable
- $1,666 = CD Player
- $1,666 = Network Player
- $1,666 = Amp/Receiver
- $3,334 = Speakers (pair)
Despite the $10,000 Price Tag, that is a somewhat modest system.
But that does give you a general idea of how I would sort my priorities. For me, while I don’t skimp on other things, the Speakers are the most important.
Again, individual priorities and preferences can alter this to taste.
And then we have to consider how the ROOM effects the sound. A particular room might be fantastic for Bookshelf speakers, but not handle large Floorstanding. So, the Room matters to the Speakers.
A Stylus/Cartridge on a Turntable will make a difference because it is mechanical. It touches the grooves, and how well it touches the groove will determine how well it sounds.
However, electronic components matter a bit less. CD Player for example, most CD Transport Mechanisms are about the same, so the decoding of the Digital Data, the quality of the DAC, and the quality of the Analog Circuits can effect how the device ultimately sounds. You can buy a CD player for about $250 or you can buy a CD Player for about $15,000. One assumes that the $15,000 model has substantial quality of build and electronics.
I think, unless you are a Billionaire, you don’t go for the best of the best, you go for a system that is reasonably balanced relative to the rest of the equipment.
When is comes to Network Player, the same applies to the Electronics, but a Network Player has one additional aspect, and that is the Software you interact with. The best hardware in the world, relative to a Network Player, can be let down if the User Interface is a mess.
When you say “Stereo” I assume you are referring to the Amp/Receiver. If you have the perfect Amp/Receiver, it has no sound. It neither adds, subtracts, or alters the sound in any way. But that’s a perfect amp and few of those truly exist. So rather than chase perfection, find something you like, and stick with that.
Seek Balance in your system relative to your Budget and your Room. And that’s the best you can do.
Thus I want to mount my speakers on a preexisting console,…
Can you explain what you mean by Console, and perhaps provide a link to a photo of the console or one similar to it?
If by console you simply mean the cabinet with your Audio Equipment is in, then that is not the prime choice. It is a Workable Choice, but not the Ideal Choice. Rather than placing the speakers on a cabinet top, you are better off buying or making Speaker Stands.
In general, you want the speakers away from Boundaries - walls, ceiling, floor, counter tops - probably the most critical boundary is the wall behind the speaker. The amount away from boundaries is based on the size of the speaker, and the amount of bass it already has. Floorstanding speakers need more space (generally) and Bookshelf need less space (generally).
Putting the speakers on top of a cabinet, introduces a very close boundary, the tabletop. If you place the speaker on a counter top, it is recommended that they be as far forward on the counter top as possible, and in some cases some would say overhanging the front edge by a small amount.
If you decide to use Speaker Stands, remember that to keep the stand stable, you can fill them with SAND or Aquarium Gravel. They don’t necessarily have to be FULL, you can decide for yourself how much you want to put in.
And if you Custom Build your own stands, make sure you can remove the Top (or Bottom) in order to fill and empty the Stands. And make sure that the Column of the Stand is sealed so Sand Dust does not leak out. The nice thing about Aquarium Gravel is that will very small granules, there is no Dust.
Walmart - Aquarium Gravel -
https://www.walmart.com/search?q=aquarium gravel 25 lbs&typeahead=aquarium gravel
Plain (not colored) Gravel is the cheapest. Here is 25 Pounds for roughly 88¢/pound -
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Culture-Aquarium-Gravel-Natural-25-lb/10449968?from=/search
Common Sand (Play Sand) on the other hand is about $7 for 50 Pounds - ~14¢/pound -
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-50-lb-Play-Sand-40100301/202007298
It must be DRY SAND, Kiln Dried Sand.
Also, when adding Sand, you can put the Sand in smaller Zip-Lock bags and just drop many bags into the column.
Can you put Speakers on a Cabinet Top - Yes? Should you - Maybe? It is certainly functional, but I don’t think anyone would say it is ideal. That said, we all do what we have to do given our circumstances.
So, my main point, outside of all the rambling, is - can you show us the console or a photo of a similar cabinet? That would give us some perspective. And can you identify the Speakers in question?
Have I found the sweet Spot in my room? No, but I have found the best spot under the circumstances, and that is with the speakers about 16" forward of the wall behind (16" from the wall to the back of the speaker, 27" from the wall to the front of the speaker).
As to moving the Speakers, yes, on occasion I do have to move the speakers, though it is uncommon.
Can Speaker Cables make a Difference? Maybe.
Do Speaker Cables make a Difference? Probably not.
For cable to make a difference, in my opinion, it has to be pretty high end high-resolving equipment. And the difference is likely to be subtle.
There is an old saying that applies to most people with regard to expensive Speaker Wire - A New One is born every minute -
https://www.audioadvisor.com/cables/speaker-cables/
$20,000 Cable -
https://www.audioadvisor.com/crclebesp-6-spsp-pr
$60 Cable -
https://www.audioadvisor.com/anclov-4-0ft-banban-sin
Neither one looks like it is worth the price.
Though keep in mind, in my opinion, people can buy what they want. Spend to your hearts content. Doesn’t cost me anything.
And do keep in mind that it does cost money to dress up speaker wire, and many of these wires are using premium components. That still doesn’t justify the cost, but it does cost money to make cable fancy and pretty.
This was discussed in Depth 5 days ago. I think you will find all your answers here -
Does speaker cable matters after all?
Here is a brief summary. I’ll start with one parameter of Cable -
14ga Stranded Oxygen Free (OFC) Copper can sustain 300w all day long, and has a 1,800w Working Peak Power. That’s covers a vast majority of people’s needs.
Just to show some contrast, common 16ga wire has a Sustained Power of 110w with a Working Peak of 1152w. That’s still pretty good.
However, if you are considering 12ga wire, that has a Sustained Power of 692w and a working Peak Power of 3200w.
Capacitance, and Inductance don’t come into the picture until you hit about 50ft. The losses here are still small but definitely measurable. So, as long as your cable runs are less than 50ft, you are good with either 14ga or 12ga wire. There are link to completed wire, and bulk wire and Banana Plugs.
Are Banana Plugs flawless, no. But they are so damned convenient, and they do make a good solid connection with the wire. At the link, you will find two Brands of Banana Plugs - Sewell and Media Bridge - both good, I have both, and they are similarly priced.
The nice thing about those banana plugs is that you don’t need any tools to install the wire into the connector.
Here is a Video -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxlaFn19JiA
Both brands use the same principle and they hold the wire very tight.
Check the link, and I think you will find what you are looking for.
I frequently make this same comment when ever the discussion of Vinyl vs other formats comes up.
We must make a distinction between the Contents and the Container. Vinyl, CD, Streaming, … are the container. The Contents of that Container can either be good, bad, or in-between.
Modern CD’s tend to be more compressed stealing the massive dynamic range capabilities of the CD itself. Vinyl, though there is new vinyl, tends to be Mastered differently. And only the Container, not the Contents, limits the Dynamic range.
CD’s could sound very good … if they only would.
My position is that there is no one right format. They all have a place in a Music Collection. A wise person would have them all - CD, Vinyl, and Streaming, and enjoy each for what it brings to the table.
Why do I still listen to Vinyl - well - because I have a significant collection of vinyl which I bought back when vinyl was the only option. Should I throw all that away simply because someone believes some other format is better? I don’t think so.
And, just so we are clear, I also have a collection of CDs. They are fine, but I actually find some Vinyl sounding better than CDs.
Examples -
Supper Session - I have an old beat up vinyl that, if you can listen past the surface noise, sounds good; excellent dynamics. I have a modern CD of the same album that sounds lifeless …due to… it having been re-mastered.
Michael Jackson - One of Michael Jackson’s most popular albums has been remixed, remastered, and re-released several times over the years. The stunning dynamics of the Original Album have been compressed more and more with each release, making the latest release almost unlistenable when compare to the Original.
Clear examples of how the quality of the Contents far outweighs the Container.
There is no need to choose one format over the another. Choose the formats that please you and serve you, and life will be good.